Steering
effort and jack plates:
Now and then
we have a case where a new owner of a bay boat has a problem with the steering.
This is almost always caused by the torque created by the propeller which is
neither a boat nor a steering system problem, but because it is so often
misunderstood I thought it a good idea to explain how and why this is happening
and what can be done to help cure the problem.
First I’d
like to comment that steering problems where the steering effort exceeds
expectations have been growing steadily in the last few years. In part this is
attributable to the consumers themselves. If you think of it, most of them have
never driven a vehicle of any kind without power steering. The truck or car
they drove to the dealership had power steering and usually every other vehicle
in their lives. Then they drive a boat which has of course an outboard motor
that can operate at different speeds, trim angles, engine heights, and can use
an all but infinite number of varying props. All of these variables can have an
effect on steering torque, and the only method of correcting that steering
torque is usually the torque tab on the engine’s anti ventilation plate.
I’ve told
people for many years there is only one speed, trim angle, engine height, etc
where the torque tab can neutralize the steering effort, if any, and all other
engine speeds and trim angles will result in some steering torque. The degree
of that torque varies tremendously depending on the application going from
barely perceptible to impossible to overcome. It is important to remember that
all of this torque is created by the propeller rotating through the water. Not
the engine, the steering system itself, or least of all the boat. The boat is
nothing more than an inert piece of material to which the other parts are
attached in this situation.
Notice I
said only one set of variables can be neutralized by the torque tab, if any.
There are cases, and that number is growing, where the tab simply cannot do
that job. Why? Look at the typical tab on let’s say a 50 hp engine. Then compare
the size of that tab to the one on a 250 hp engine. Even though there is five
times as much power spinning a much larger propeller the tabs are nearly
identical in size. If it’s just right on the 50 hp, it’s way too small on the
250 hp.
Another cause
of increased steering problems caused by prop torque is the props themselves.
In the last ten years I’ve noticed a trend to larger diameter props. Often this
results in more efficiency especially at mid range speeds, but it also
contributes to the steering torque transmitted from spinning it through the
water. This increased prop torque has not been met with increased torque
correction in most cases, and I fault the engine builders for that oversight.
The technology is there and has been for many years to do so. Going way back to
the mid to late 70’s when bass boats were very popular and faster speeds were
needed to get to the good fishing spot first the owners and dealers started
experimenting with elevated engine heights via jack plates. This resulted in
the same increased prop torque we have now as a result of taking the torque tab
out of the flow of water, as illustrated in these rough drawings.
So why does
this elevated position result in more prop torque? It’s really simple physics.
One of Newton’s laws regards the natural equal and opposite reaction with
regard to a moving object. The prop spins to the right, twisting the engine to
the left, resulting in a pull to the right at the steering wheel. When the prop
is completely immersed in the water the blade on top partially counters the
blade on the bottom, but not quite because it runs behind the engine’s gear
case where the water flow is disturbed and the blade doesn’t get quite the bite
as the blade on the bottom in undisturbed water. As the prop is raised the blade on top begins
to surface dramatically reducing the drag on that blade and its ability to
counter the twisting force of the blade on the bottom. At the same time the
torque tab is clearing the flow of water coming from under the boat and it
eventually has no effect at all in countering steering torque.
The cure for
this is illustrated in the bottom right corner of the second drawing, and it’s
not very clear, but what it involves is the curved skeg found on the Yamaha SHO
200hp through 250hp. I first saw this used on the Evinrude Rude Ram in 2000 on
what they called their Lightning Gearcase. These high speed gear cases not only
include this very effective torque correction in the skeg, but also utilize a
low water pickup for the elevated running positions. This is to keep a constant
water flow going to the water pump to cool the engine.
After market
companies such as TH Marine and Bob’s Machine also offer an add on wedge to be
attached to the lower skeg of engines not built this way. These simple and
inexpensive devices go back to the early bass boat days and are still
inexpensive and effective today. If you have an engine mounted on a jack plate
allowing the engine to be raised on the transom, whether it be fixed or
hydraulic, I highly recommend these devices if you do not have a SHO engine on
the boat. Info at this link. http://www.thmarine.com/products/Outboard-Performance/Outboard-Torque-Tabs
and pictures/ pricing at this link http://www.amazon.com/T-H-Marine-Torque-Tab/dp/B0000AXV99/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410549736&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=the+marine+outboard+torque+tab
Another
problem with steering torque is the confusion floating around hydraulic
steering. People often confuse hydraulic for power steering. While hydraulic
steering can offer less resistance to steering effort than mechanical it is
done through the number of steering wheel turns required to move the engine the
same distance as compared to the mechanical system. For example the typical
mechanical set up requires around 2.7 turns to go from hard right to hard left.
The average hydraulic system requires around 5 turns to do the same thing, and
some of them as many as 7 turns. Like changing gears on a winch, more turns equals less effort to turn the
wheel. But even though hydraulic may be easier than mechanical it does nothing
to remove the torque from the prop, it only serves to help the driver overcome
that torque. As the torque increases from one or more of the aforementioned
variables it comes to a point where the operator of the boat is stressed to
steer and often times they now assume something is wrong with the steering, or
the boat.
Power assist
steering can help overcome this complaint. Remember it is an option on most
boats equipped with hydraulic steering but it should be offered before the
complaint whenever possible. It is up to the dealer to anticipate this need
depending on the set up being sold. I personally don’t like this solution since
it does not relieve the pressure created by prop torque, it only overcomes it.
In extreme cases such as an elevated running height where the top of the prop
as well as the torque tab are out of the water flow the torque can be
tremendous along with very high hydraulic pressures inside the steering
cylinder, hoses, and the helm. If something breaks in the steering it can
result in catastrophic results including loss of property and life. Because of
this I always recommend that steps be taken to reduce the torque before steps
are taken to overcome it.
I hope this
dissertation is helpful and can help us all to keep the new owners happy with
their Key West Boats. Remember this is not an issue isolated to Key West Boats
in any way, but part of high speed recreational boating for many years. While this article was written primarily for
bay boats equipped with hydraulic jack plates many of the facts covered here
with regard to prop torque and exaggerated steering effort apply to many other
applications as well.
Thanks
Tom Marlowe
Key West
Boats Inc.