How to pick the
right troll motor:
Troll motors are a lot like
outboards; there's not one choice that is always the right choice. We have
fewer brands to choose from, but models within the brands are many and widely
varied not only in power, rated as pounds of thrust, but in voltage. It makes
the choice a bit mind boggling, and everyone has their opinions. Here are mine,
as unbiased as I can be:
The 15's and 17's really do not need anything more than a 12 volt system. They are produced with up to 55 lb thrust these days and that's pretty good really. I know everyone imagines there will be that time with the strong current and stiff wind they have to beat, but I'm more a go with the flow kind of fisherman. I use the big engine to position the boat upstream or upwind, then use the troller to guide the boat as it's pushed by the elements. My battery lasts longer that way, and so does the troll motor. Do I catch more fish? I don't really know, but it's not about quantity to me, but more about the experience and sharing it with someone I care about. Now a tournament fisherman may have other needs, and a 24 bolt or even 36 volt system may be right for him, but then he's not likely to be fishing from a 15 or 17 these days.
The 18's and up really ought to have a 24 volt system, and in some of the bigger models such as the 230BR or 246BR, maybe even a 36 volt system. They start out around 70 lb thrust and go up to just over 100 lb. I've used the 70lb motor on a 210BR in nasty conditions and found it to be fine. Would more thrust have been better? Rarely, but I can always turn down the thrust just as I can pull back the throttle on the big engine. I've told many people I've never had a boat with too much power, on either end. I know how to adjust it. Remember though that just as there is a price to pay for more engine power in cost, weight, and fuel, there's a price to pay in troll motor power. One of the major considerations is that the higher the voltage, the more batteries they require, and those batteries are heavy and take up valuable space. Consider all this before making your choice.
After the thrust and voltage question we have the shaft length question. This one isn't as difficult as the others but there are some considerations. If you choose a hand control model the shaft should be longer to allow easy access to the handle while standing or sitting. Standing of course requiring a higher handle than sitting. When I go with a tiller control I go with the longest shaft available for that thrust; usually at least 52" and maybe as long as 64". The boat height above the water obviously comes into play as well. The 15's and 17's, as well as the bay series, have a bow that doesn't sit terribly high above the water at rest. This is by design so they can be more easily controlled in a stiff wind that is likely to be encountered in open bays. Remember the higher and deeper boats have a larger 'sail' area for the wind to push. They are harder to control and require more thrust than the models designed around troll motor use such as the bays.
To get an idea of the shaft length you need as a minimum measure the distance from the top of the bow, or the deck, down to the water line. Remember the water line always varies with weight placement, and then add at least eight inches or so. If they prop gets too close to the water line it will grab air and churn so you want some play there. Then consider the method of operation. For instance with a foot control motor I can go shorter on the shaft length than with a tiller because I don't need to reach it. This goes for the remote control models as well. Shorter shaft allows you to fish over the troll motor easier, especially important for the fly fishermen or when throwing a cast net.
The 15's and 17's really do not need anything more than a 12 volt system. They are produced with up to 55 lb thrust these days and that's pretty good really. I know everyone imagines there will be that time with the strong current and stiff wind they have to beat, but I'm more a go with the flow kind of fisherman. I use the big engine to position the boat upstream or upwind, then use the troller to guide the boat as it's pushed by the elements. My battery lasts longer that way, and so does the troll motor. Do I catch more fish? I don't really know, but it's not about quantity to me, but more about the experience and sharing it with someone I care about. Now a tournament fisherman may have other needs, and a 24 bolt or even 36 volt system may be right for him, but then he's not likely to be fishing from a 15 or 17 these days.
The 18's and up really ought to have a 24 volt system, and in some of the bigger models such as the 230BR or 246BR, maybe even a 36 volt system. They start out around 70 lb thrust and go up to just over 100 lb. I've used the 70lb motor on a 210BR in nasty conditions and found it to be fine. Would more thrust have been better? Rarely, but I can always turn down the thrust just as I can pull back the throttle on the big engine. I've told many people I've never had a boat with too much power, on either end. I know how to adjust it. Remember though that just as there is a price to pay for more engine power in cost, weight, and fuel, there's a price to pay in troll motor power. One of the major considerations is that the higher the voltage, the more batteries they require, and those batteries are heavy and take up valuable space. Consider all this before making your choice.
After the thrust and voltage question we have the shaft length question. This one isn't as difficult as the others but there are some considerations. If you choose a hand control model the shaft should be longer to allow easy access to the handle while standing or sitting. Standing of course requiring a higher handle than sitting. When I go with a tiller control I go with the longest shaft available for that thrust; usually at least 52" and maybe as long as 64". The boat height above the water obviously comes into play as well. The 15's and 17's, as well as the bay series, have a bow that doesn't sit terribly high above the water at rest. This is by design so they can be more easily controlled in a stiff wind that is likely to be encountered in open bays. Remember the higher and deeper boats have a larger 'sail' area for the wind to push. They are harder to control and require more thrust than the models designed around troll motor use such as the bays.
To get an idea of the shaft length you need as a minimum measure the distance from the top of the bow, or the deck, down to the water line. Remember the water line always varies with weight placement, and then add at least eight inches or so. If they prop gets too close to the water line it will grab air and churn so you want some play there. Then consider the method of operation. For instance with a foot control motor I can go shorter on the shaft length than with a tiller because I don't need to reach it. This goes for the remote control models as well. Shorter shaft allows you to fish over the troll motor easier, especially important for the fly fishermen or when throwing a cast net.
We also have the remote control
models that have gained so much popularity. I’ve tried these and they do have
some features that are very nice. For instance the virtual anchor. On the
remote the operator simply clicks the “Anchor” button, and the troll motor
holds the boat where it is. That relieves the fisherman of the chore and allows
you to work that area without paying so much attention to running the motor.
Some models take it a step further
and include a remote deploy and retrieve button. Imagine deploying the motor,
navigating the boat, anchoring, then retrieving the motor, while never leaving
the rear seat. Guides have got to love this one, not to mention the grandpa
taking the kids fishing.
This may not give you an exact answer for shaft length and power requirements but it should give you an idea of where to start in the thought process. What is right for one may not be right for another, like most personal decisions. I hope this helps.
This may not give you an exact answer for shaft length and power requirements but it should give you an idea of where to start in the thought process. What is right for one may not be right for another, like most personal decisions. I hope this helps.
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